 
Bolder Boulder
Click to see larger photo
 
Iris Culture In Tucson
Produced by TAIS (continued)
Soil 
  Amendments: A soil amendment improves the soil. It is 
  different than a fertilizer in that it improves or maintains 
  the soil's texture, water retention, and drainage. Soil 
  amendments can be broken down into two categories: organic 
  and inorganic materials.
  Organic Materials: long term effect of reducing alkalinity 
  of native soil.
  1. Compost: Builds good soil structure, is a source of many 
  slow release nutrients. Use 25% to 50% of total soil volume 
  depending on condition of soil being amended. You can't 
  use too much!
  2. Manures: They are hot! They must be composted before 
  use or mixed into the soil 4 weeks prior to planting. Manures 
  should never come in contact with the rhizomes! It is recommended 
  that manure never be used in the top 4" of soil.
  3. Peat Moss: Relatively expensive to use on a large scale. 
  Use 25% to 50% of total soil volume.
  4. Shredded Wood By-products: Also known as mulch/sawdust. 
  These products must be used with the addition of some nitrogen 
  unless they are already fortified by the manufacturer. Use 
  25% to 50% of total soil volume.
  Inorganic materials: Used for specific purposes, i.e.. Water 
  retention in sandy soils.
  1. Physical Amendments: Perlite and pumice are inert materials 
  that improve the texture of clay soils and because they 
  are porous, they absorb water. They last longer than organic 
  materials, but provide no plant nutrients and are expensive. 
  Vermiculite and expanded mica can absorb water, nutrients, 
  and provide some potassium and magnesium. It does not last 
  as long in the soil as perlite and pumice.
  2. Chemical Amendments: 
  a.) Gypsum: calcium sulfate is used to rid soils of excess 
  sodium allowing the soil to absorb water more readily. It 
  also supplies some sulfur. Use 20-30 lbs. Per 100 ft and 
  apply 4" of water.
  b.) Sulfur: is used to reduce the alkalinity of Tucson soils. 
  Use 5 lbs. Per 100 ft.
  c.) Lime: is not used in the native soils of Tucson.

  
    | Fertilizers |  | 
   
    | Organic | Chemicals | 
   
    | Alfalfa 
      Meal or Pellets | Ammonium 
      Phosphate 16-20-0 | 
   
    | Bloodmeal | Ammonium 
      Sulfate 21-0-0 | 
   
    | Bonemeal | Super 
      Phosphate | 
   
    | Cottonseed 
      Meal | Triple 
      Superphosphate 0-45-0 | 
   
    | Green 
      Manuring (growing cover Best Phosphate 11-52-0 Crops to be turned over)
 | Timed 
      Fertilizers (i.e., Osmocote) | 
   
    | Horn 
      and Hoof Meal |  | 
ALWAYS 
  follow directions provided by the manufacturer of fertilizers 
  for best results.
This 
  recipe is for most types of Bearded Iris, Spurias, Arils, 
  and Arilbred irises.
This 
  recipe is based on an iris bed of the following size:
  100 ft2 (10'x10')
  Dug 18 " deep (5.5 yd.3)
Dig 
  out, screen to remove rocks, and save native soil. Fill 
  hole with water and allow it to drain. If it doesn't drain, 
  keep digging until it does, or consider building a raised 
  iris bed. Drainage is very important to the health of your 
  plants.
Add 
  to the native soil the following ingredients:
1.5 
  cubic yards of compost
  8 cubic feet of medium vermiculite
  25 lbs. Gypsum
  5 lbs. Sulfur
  100 lbs. Alfalfa Meal
  100 lbs. Cottonseed Meal
  ¾ lbs. Ammonium Sulfate
  ¾ lbs. Triple Superphosphate
 
  Click 
    here to continue reading this article